Post by FEATHER on Jan 25, 2015 20:31:10 GMT
Hunting Techniques:
Hunter's Crouch - Keep your body low with your tail sticking straight ahead. Hind legs must be ready to leap and front paws must be ready to pounce. Is also a good fighting techinique.
Fishing Catch - When fishing in a lake or river.keep your reflection away from the water. When the fish comes, quickly hook your paw into the water and scoop the fish onto the surface. Finish it off with a quick killing bit.
Squirrel Race - When the squirrel runs up a tree to escape, you quickly run up the trunk beside the squirrel until your fast enough to block it to the top of the tree. You chase it down next and hopefully catch it. Very complicated technique.
Bird Leap - When the bird is aware that it is being hunted and begins to fly up, you leap as high as you can and bat the bird back down. Recommended for older apprentices to learn.
Mouse Stalker - Keep your pawsteps light on the ground and try to slide them so the mouse won't feel your pawsteps.
Rabbit Fishing - A techinique when you are desperate for prey. Find a rabbit hole and make sure a rabbit's in there. Then, wait silently until rabbit's head pops out. Scoop it out like you are fishing, and hopefully catch it.
Battle Moves:
Back kick - Explosive surprise more to catch opponent from Behind. Judge opponents distances from you carefully, then lash out with you back legs, taking the weight on your front paws.
Back rake - A bit like Belly rake, if your a SkyClan cat this move works best. If your fighting a cat from the front, jump over the cats head and score your claws down their back.
Belly rake - A fight stopper. Slice with unsheathed claws across soft flesh of opponents belly. If your pinned down, the belly rake quickly puts you back in control.
Double death bite - Seems dishonorable and is only used against very evil cats. A partner and you take on one cat. Once you've got a hold of your opponent, your partner helps hold down enemy cat, and you both bite hard down on enemy cat's throat. Two pairs of jaws will cut off airway and cat will choke to death. Like I said, it's considered dishonorable and would only be used against evil cats like Tigerstar.
Dizzy dance - Only can be preformed by a extremely small and quick cat against a larger and at least somewhat slower cat. The cat charges head on then swiftly leaped sideways, ducking under the cat then as soon as the cat preforming this attack is out from under the other cat it spins and leaps over it. Then once More spins but rams the side then jumps over/goes under the cat and rams the other side then land one final blow by leaping onto the cat's back and grabbing the scruff with teeth and using your free paws to batter the cat's head. This attack should in the end result in a dizzy or confused enemy.
Dizzy tackle - A great move for swift young warriors facing older, larger warriors. You run in circles around them at top speed until their to dizzy or tired (if the were chasing you) to keep up. Then you tackle them. While they are down, attack. Caution, standing directly over them makes you vulnerable to the Belly Rake. This is a One-on-one move and is not recommended in a place with many foes.
Front paw blow - Frontal Attack. Bring your front paws down hard on you opponents head, claws unsheathed.
Front paw strike - Frontal attack. Slice downward with your front paw at the body or face of your opponent. Claws unsheathed.
Killing bite - A death blow to the back of the neck. Quick and silent and sometimes considered dishonorable. Used only as a last resort.
Leap and hold - Ideal for a small cat facing a large opponent. Spring onto the opponents back and grip with unsheathed claws. Now you are beyond the range of your opponent paws and in the position to inflict severe body wounds. A group of apprentices can defeat a large and dangerous warrior in this way.
Leap-and-cover - Ideal for making your opponent feel much pain, leap onto your opponent's back and put your paws over their eyes. For the moment the opponent is blinded, sink your claws into the soft skin around their eyes. If your opponent doesn't run away, take advantage of their temporary blindness and perform leap-and-hold move.
Making sure - You never know if a opponent is actually dead. When an opponent goes limp, they become vunerable, so make sure they are really dead. Bite and slash. Claws unsheathed. When you think they have gone to StarClan, pray and leave.
Partner fighting - Warriors who have trained and fought together will often instinctively fall into a paired defensive position, each protecting the others back while fending off an opponent o either side. Slashing, clawing, and leaping together, battle pairs can be whirlwind of danger for attackers.
Play dead - Effective in a tight situation, such as when you are pinned. Stop struggling and go limp. When your opponent relaxed his grip, thinking you are defeated, push yourself up explosively. This will throw off an unwary opponent and you are in the attacking position.
Scruff shake - Secure a strong teeth grip in the scuff of your opponents neck, then shake violently until he or she is to rattled to fight back. Most effective against rats, which are small enough to throw. A strong throw will stun or kill them.
Tail trip - The opponent moves to you and at the right moment, trip them with your tail.
Teeth grip - Target your opponents extremists- the legs, tail, scuff, or ears- ans sink in your teeth and hold. This move is similar to the leap and hold, except your claws remain free to fight.
Unbalancing act - If a cat is going to bring down all its weight on you while rearing on its back legs, role towards your opponents hind legs to unbalance him.
Upright lock - Finial, crushing more on already weakened opponent. Rear up on your back legs and bring full weight on your opponent. If opponent does the same, wrestle and flip him under you. This move makes you vulnerable to the belly rake, so requires great strength and speed.
Battle Tactics:
Approach from behind your enemy - The advantage is gaining the higher ground is that you can charge at greater speed at the enemy, who will be weakened by having to fight uphill.
Use the light from the sun - The sun should be behind you to dazzle your Use the light from the sun enemy. In green leaf, the midday sun is especially bright and cruel to cats who are used to sulking under the cover of the trees. In leaf bare, the low sun hovers around the eye line like a troublesome bee, keep your enemy from facing it, and they'll have trouble seeing an attacker from any direction.
Know were the wind is coming from - If there is a strong wind, it should be blow from behind you toward the enemy, blinding them with dust and holding them back like a current of a river. If you wish to preserve the element of surprise, the wind should blow from the enemy position toward you so your scent is carried away from them.
Conceal the size of your force - The number of cats in your battle patrols can be hidden to confuse the enemy from a distance. Cats packed tightly together will appear as a small attacking force, encouraging the enemy to be over confidant and make poor strategic decisions. Alternatively, is cats are spread out in signal file, they will look like a solid border of warriors, which will seem impenetrable to an advancing enemy.
Attack from both ends of the Enemy first - If both ends of the enemy line are defeated, the cats in the center of the line will have to fight the two fronts. Even if they are outnumbered, the will be out flanked, vulnerable, and in disarray.
Keep fresh warriors in reserve - Always have adequate reserves of fresh, fit warriors behind the battle line. They will be able to replace injured warriors, launch a separate attack if the enemy tries to encircle your forces, or fend off a surprise enemy from the rear. If the battle is in your favor, finish it by sending your reserve warriors behind the enemy line to surround them and demand surrender.
Feigned retreat and ambush - A group of strong cats charges at the enemy, screeching, then turns and withdraws. Repeat this until the infuriated enemy finally breaks it's line and gives chase. Then the trap is sprung. Other warriors positioned in rabbit holes and other dips in the ground-out of enemy eyes line- attack as soon as your opponents have gone past. The enemy will be forced to stop and turn around to fight the unexpected threat, as they do the retreating cats must turn and charge back at them with full speed. The enemy is caught between two bodies of attacking cats and will quickly surrender.
Water Combat:
Double-Front-Paw - Splashes water into the face of the enemy.
Underwater Leg Sweep (Front of Hind) - The opponent will not see it coming under the water so won’t have a chance to brace himself before losing his balance.
Push-Down and Release - Almost all non-XeoClan cats panic if they are submerged, while XeoClan cats know how to hold their breath underwater. This move can be used to secure a decisive victory, because it’s most likely to make the opponent surrender.
Underwater Clinch - Uses warrior’s weight to hold the opponent below the surface, with a firm grip that enables the warrior to bring his enemy spluttering back to the surface before forcing him under again.
Tail Splash - Temporarily blinds opponent by flicking water in his eyes.
Underwater Push-Off - Crouching and erupting out of the water into opponents, using surprise and impact to knock him off balance.
Sandpaw Splash - Using noise of water splashed at a distance to create a decoy, leaving opportunity for a surprise attack.
Above-Ground Combat:
The Sky-Crusher - Landing with all four feet on top of an opponent, flattening him like a leaf.
The Flick-Over - Landing with front paws outstretched to sweep the opponent off his feet and roll him onto his back.
The Kick - Kicking down hard as the warrior nears the ground, then using momentum from landing to spring away before the opponent can retaliate.
The Slice - Dropping down with claws unsheathed for maximum injury.
The Branch Swing - Holding on to the branch with front claws and swinging hind legs into the opponent’s face.
The Reverse Branch Swing - Holding on to the branch with back claws and striking with front legs through the swing.
The Trunk Swing - Sliding down the trunk and springing off at head height, using hind legs to push off and clear opponents. (Good if tree is surrounded.)
The Reverse Climb - Climbing backward up the trunk as the opponent advances to gain advantage of height; often followed by Trunk Swing.
Surprised?
Move quietly and communicate using tail-signals. Cracking twigs, startling birds, and rustling bracken will tell the enemy exactly where you are.
Keep downwind of the trespassers so that your scent doesn’t give you away.
Look for freshly broken twigs, overturned leaves on the forest floor, remains of prey, or a clump of fur caught on a bramble. Any animal that moves through the forest leaves behind signs that it’s passed-and signs like this could lead you straight to the invaders.
Keep your mouth open to search for unfamiliar scents. Be careful: If there is scent when there is no breeze to carry it through the forest, it could mean that your enemy is very close by.
Light-colored pelts are easily seen against brown and green foliage, so stay in the thickest cover. Keep low-the enemy will be looking for movement at normal head height, not close to the ground.
Never miss an opportunity to perfect your tracking ability. In the nursery, kits sneak up on their mothers and pounce with their moss-soft paws. Apprentices leap out on one another from behind bushes and tree stumps. These are more than just games. One day, these skills could save your life and defend your Clan.
Some common types of Predator/Other Animals:
Foxes - Russet-red fur, bushy tails, sharp teeth, and pointed noses. Look a bit like dogs. Live in dens, often in sandy ground hidden by undergrowth. Live alone or with their cubs. Mean, suspicious, and hostile, they don’t eat cats, but they will kill for pleasure and not just for prey. They hunt mostly at night and have a strong and unpleasant smell.
Badgers - Large, white short black fur and a white stripe down their long, pointed muzzles. Small, beady eyes, powerful shoulders, and sharp claws. Live in either caves or sets, which are tunnels underground, bushes, or tree roots. Badgers sometimes prey on young kits. Can trample their victims with enormous paws or deliver a deadly bite. Have tremendously powerful jaws that make it nearly impossible to escape their grip.
Dogs - Size varies from that of a kit to a pony. Fur can be long or short, white, brown, black, gray, or a mix. Can have pointy or flat noses, droopy or sharp ears. Make loud, angry noises and love chasing cats. Live mostly in Twoleg nests or barns. Wild dogs might sleep anywhere. Loud, fast, and sharp-toothed. Many dogs seem to be devoted to their Twolegs and are seen only in Twoleg company. There is a theory that most dogs are too dim-witted to be truly dangerous. Packs of dogs are always to be feared.
Birds of Prey - Winged predators with hooked beaks and sharp, curving talons, these include hawks, eagles, falcons, and owls. Nest in hollows or branches of trees, or on the ledges of cliffs. Extremely sharp vision for spotting prey from a distance. Hawks and eagles are daytime hunters; owls hunt at night. They swoop down from the sky to carry off prey, which includes kits.
Horses/Sheep/Cows - Four-legged farm creatures. Horses are tall and swift with flowing manes and tails and giant, pounding hooves. Sheep look like fluffy white clouds dotted across a green field. Cows can be black and white or brown, and their hooves are to be avoided. Large fenced fields and sometimes hay-filled Twoleg barns. Mostly harmless. However, take caution passing through their fields. A galloping horse or stampeding herd of cows would trample a cat without even noticing.
Rats - Brown-furred and beady-eyed rodents, with long, furless tails and sharp front teeth. Not much bigger than kits. Live in garbage dumps or anywhere they can scavenge Twoleg food. Live and travel in packs. Individually they pose no threat to cats, but their numbers are often overwhelming, and bites can cause infection. A single rat can contaminate a whole Clan.
Twolegs - Tall, smooth-skinned creatures with some fur on their heads. Walk on two legs. Live in large, boxy nests with hard roofs and floors, often surrounded by tidy gardens and fences. Also known as Nofurs or Upwalkers. Twolegs ride around in monsters and seem to like dogs. They are to be avoided if possible, as they are capable of doing something unpredictable at any moment, such as tearing down a tree, starting a fire, or locking up a cat for no reason.
Source
Hunter's Crouch - Keep your body low with your tail sticking straight ahead. Hind legs must be ready to leap and front paws must be ready to pounce. Is also a good fighting techinique.
Fishing Catch - When fishing in a lake or river.keep your reflection away from the water. When the fish comes, quickly hook your paw into the water and scoop the fish onto the surface. Finish it off with a quick killing bit.
Squirrel Race - When the squirrel runs up a tree to escape, you quickly run up the trunk beside the squirrel until your fast enough to block it to the top of the tree. You chase it down next and hopefully catch it. Very complicated technique.
Bird Leap - When the bird is aware that it is being hunted and begins to fly up, you leap as high as you can and bat the bird back down. Recommended for older apprentices to learn.
Mouse Stalker - Keep your pawsteps light on the ground and try to slide them so the mouse won't feel your pawsteps.
Rabbit Fishing - A techinique when you are desperate for prey. Find a rabbit hole and make sure a rabbit's in there. Then, wait silently until rabbit's head pops out. Scoop it out like you are fishing, and hopefully catch it.
Battle Moves:
Back kick - Explosive surprise more to catch opponent from Behind. Judge opponents distances from you carefully, then lash out with you back legs, taking the weight on your front paws.
Back rake - A bit like Belly rake, if your a SkyClan cat this move works best. If your fighting a cat from the front, jump over the cats head and score your claws down their back.
Belly rake - A fight stopper. Slice with unsheathed claws across soft flesh of opponents belly. If your pinned down, the belly rake quickly puts you back in control.
Double death bite - Seems dishonorable and is only used against very evil cats. A partner and you take on one cat. Once you've got a hold of your opponent, your partner helps hold down enemy cat, and you both bite hard down on enemy cat's throat. Two pairs of jaws will cut off airway and cat will choke to death. Like I said, it's considered dishonorable and would only be used against evil cats like Tigerstar.
Dizzy dance - Only can be preformed by a extremely small and quick cat against a larger and at least somewhat slower cat. The cat charges head on then swiftly leaped sideways, ducking under the cat then as soon as the cat preforming this attack is out from under the other cat it spins and leaps over it. Then once More spins but rams the side then jumps over/goes under the cat and rams the other side then land one final blow by leaping onto the cat's back and grabbing the scruff with teeth and using your free paws to batter the cat's head. This attack should in the end result in a dizzy or confused enemy.
Dizzy tackle - A great move for swift young warriors facing older, larger warriors. You run in circles around them at top speed until their to dizzy or tired (if the were chasing you) to keep up. Then you tackle them. While they are down, attack. Caution, standing directly over them makes you vulnerable to the Belly Rake. This is a One-on-one move and is not recommended in a place with many foes.
Front paw blow - Frontal Attack. Bring your front paws down hard on you opponents head, claws unsheathed.
Front paw strike - Frontal attack. Slice downward with your front paw at the body or face of your opponent. Claws unsheathed.
Killing bite - A death blow to the back of the neck. Quick and silent and sometimes considered dishonorable. Used only as a last resort.
Leap and hold - Ideal for a small cat facing a large opponent. Spring onto the opponents back and grip with unsheathed claws. Now you are beyond the range of your opponent paws and in the position to inflict severe body wounds. A group of apprentices can defeat a large and dangerous warrior in this way.
Leap-and-cover - Ideal for making your opponent feel much pain, leap onto your opponent's back and put your paws over their eyes. For the moment the opponent is blinded, sink your claws into the soft skin around their eyes. If your opponent doesn't run away, take advantage of their temporary blindness and perform leap-and-hold move.
Making sure - You never know if a opponent is actually dead. When an opponent goes limp, they become vunerable, so make sure they are really dead. Bite and slash. Claws unsheathed. When you think they have gone to StarClan, pray and leave.
Partner fighting - Warriors who have trained and fought together will often instinctively fall into a paired defensive position, each protecting the others back while fending off an opponent o either side. Slashing, clawing, and leaping together, battle pairs can be whirlwind of danger for attackers.
Play dead - Effective in a tight situation, such as when you are pinned. Stop struggling and go limp. When your opponent relaxed his grip, thinking you are defeated, push yourself up explosively. This will throw off an unwary opponent and you are in the attacking position.
Scruff shake - Secure a strong teeth grip in the scuff of your opponents neck, then shake violently until he or she is to rattled to fight back. Most effective against rats, which are small enough to throw. A strong throw will stun or kill them.
Tail trip - The opponent moves to you and at the right moment, trip them with your tail.
Teeth grip - Target your opponents extremists- the legs, tail, scuff, or ears- ans sink in your teeth and hold. This move is similar to the leap and hold, except your claws remain free to fight.
Unbalancing act - If a cat is going to bring down all its weight on you while rearing on its back legs, role towards your opponents hind legs to unbalance him.
Upright lock - Finial, crushing more on already weakened opponent. Rear up on your back legs and bring full weight on your opponent. If opponent does the same, wrestle and flip him under you. This move makes you vulnerable to the belly rake, so requires great strength and speed.
Battle Tactics:
Approach from behind your enemy - The advantage is gaining the higher ground is that you can charge at greater speed at the enemy, who will be weakened by having to fight uphill.
Use the light from the sun - The sun should be behind you to dazzle your Use the light from the sun enemy. In green leaf, the midday sun is especially bright and cruel to cats who are used to sulking under the cover of the trees. In leaf bare, the low sun hovers around the eye line like a troublesome bee, keep your enemy from facing it, and they'll have trouble seeing an attacker from any direction.
Know were the wind is coming from - If there is a strong wind, it should be blow from behind you toward the enemy, blinding them with dust and holding them back like a current of a river. If you wish to preserve the element of surprise, the wind should blow from the enemy position toward you so your scent is carried away from them.
Conceal the size of your force - The number of cats in your battle patrols can be hidden to confuse the enemy from a distance. Cats packed tightly together will appear as a small attacking force, encouraging the enemy to be over confidant and make poor strategic decisions. Alternatively, is cats are spread out in signal file, they will look like a solid border of warriors, which will seem impenetrable to an advancing enemy.
Attack from both ends of the Enemy first - If both ends of the enemy line are defeated, the cats in the center of the line will have to fight the two fronts. Even if they are outnumbered, the will be out flanked, vulnerable, and in disarray.
Keep fresh warriors in reserve - Always have adequate reserves of fresh, fit warriors behind the battle line. They will be able to replace injured warriors, launch a separate attack if the enemy tries to encircle your forces, or fend off a surprise enemy from the rear. If the battle is in your favor, finish it by sending your reserve warriors behind the enemy line to surround them and demand surrender.
Feigned retreat and ambush - A group of strong cats charges at the enemy, screeching, then turns and withdraws. Repeat this until the infuriated enemy finally breaks it's line and gives chase. Then the trap is sprung. Other warriors positioned in rabbit holes and other dips in the ground-out of enemy eyes line- attack as soon as your opponents have gone past. The enemy will be forced to stop and turn around to fight the unexpected threat, as they do the retreating cats must turn and charge back at them with full speed. The enemy is caught between two bodies of attacking cats and will quickly surrender.
Water Combat:
Double-Front-Paw - Splashes water into the face of the enemy.
Underwater Leg Sweep (Front of Hind) - The opponent will not see it coming under the water so won’t have a chance to brace himself before losing his balance.
Push-Down and Release - Almost all non-XeoClan cats panic if they are submerged, while XeoClan cats know how to hold their breath underwater. This move can be used to secure a decisive victory, because it’s most likely to make the opponent surrender.
Underwater Clinch - Uses warrior’s weight to hold the opponent below the surface, with a firm grip that enables the warrior to bring his enemy spluttering back to the surface before forcing him under again.
Tail Splash - Temporarily blinds opponent by flicking water in his eyes.
Underwater Push-Off - Crouching and erupting out of the water into opponents, using surprise and impact to knock him off balance.
Sandpaw Splash - Using noise of water splashed at a distance to create a decoy, leaving opportunity for a surprise attack.
Above-Ground Combat:
The Sky-Crusher - Landing with all four feet on top of an opponent, flattening him like a leaf.
The Flick-Over - Landing with front paws outstretched to sweep the opponent off his feet and roll him onto his back.
The Kick - Kicking down hard as the warrior nears the ground, then using momentum from landing to spring away before the opponent can retaliate.
The Slice - Dropping down with claws unsheathed for maximum injury.
The Branch Swing - Holding on to the branch with front claws and swinging hind legs into the opponent’s face.
The Reverse Branch Swing - Holding on to the branch with back claws and striking with front legs through the swing.
The Trunk Swing - Sliding down the trunk and springing off at head height, using hind legs to push off and clear opponents. (Good if tree is surrounded.)
The Reverse Climb - Climbing backward up the trunk as the opponent advances to gain advantage of height; often followed by Trunk Swing.
Surprised?
Move quietly and communicate using tail-signals. Cracking twigs, startling birds, and rustling bracken will tell the enemy exactly where you are.
Keep downwind of the trespassers so that your scent doesn’t give you away.
Look for freshly broken twigs, overturned leaves on the forest floor, remains of prey, or a clump of fur caught on a bramble. Any animal that moves through the forest leaves behind signs that it’s passed-and signs like this could lead you straight to the invaders.
Keep your mouth open to search for unfamiliar scents. Be careful: If there is scent when there is no breeze to carry it through the forest, it could mean that your enemy is very close by.
Light-colored pelts are easily seen against brown and green foliage, so stay in the thickest cover. Keep low-the enemy will be looking for movement at normal head height, not close to the ground.
Never miss an opportunity to perfect your tracking ability. In the nursery, kits sneak up on their mothers and pounce with their moss-soft paws. Apprentices leap out on one another from behind bushes and tree stumps. These are more than just games. One day, these skills could save your life and defend your Clan.
Some common types of Predator/Other Animals:
Foxes - Russet-red fur, bushy tails, sharp teeth, and pointed noses. Look a bit like dogs. Live in dens, often in sandy ground hidden by undergrowth. Live alone or with their cubs. Mean, suspicious, and hostile, they don’t eat cats, but they will kill for pleasure and not just for prey. They hunt mostly at night and have a strong and unpleasant smell.
Badgers - Large, white short black fur and a white stripe down their long, pointed muzzles. Small, beady eyes, powerful shoulders, and sharp claws. Live in either caves or sets, which are tunnels underground, bushes, or tree roots. Badgers sometimes prey on young kits. Can trample their victims with enormous paws or deliver a deadly bite. Have tremendously powerful jaws that make it nearly impossible to escape their grip.
Dogs - Size varies from that of a kit to a pony. Fur can be long or short, white, brown, black, gray, or a mix. Can have pointy or flat noses, droopy or sharp ears. Make loud, angry noises and love chasing cats. Live mostly in Twoleg nests or barns. Wild dogs might sleep anywhere. Loud, fast, and sharp-toothed. Many dogs seem to be devoted to their Twolegs and are seen only in Twoleg company. There is a theory that most dogs are too dim-witted to be truly dangerous. Packs of dogs are always to be feared.
Birds of Prey - Winged predators with hooked beaks and sharp, curving talons, these include hawks, eagles, falcons, and owls. Nest in hollows or branches of trees, or on the ledges of cliffs. Extremely sharp vision for spotting prey from a distance. Hawks and eagles are daytime hunters; owls hunt at night. They swoop down from the sky to carry off prey, which includes kits.
Horses/Sheep/Cows - Four-legged farm creatures. Horses are tall and swift with flowing manes and tails and giant, pounding hooves. Sheep look like fluffy white clouds dotted across a green field. Cows can be black and white or brown, and their hooves are to be avoided. Large fenced fields and sometimes hay-filled Twoleg barns. Mostly harmless. However, take caution passing through their fields. A galloping horse or stampeding herd of cows would trample a cat without even noticing.
Rats - Brown-furred and beady-eyed rodents, with long, furless tails and sharp front teeth. Not much bigger than kits. Live in garbage dumps or anywhere they can scavenge Twoleg food. Live and travel in packs. Individually they pose no threat to cats, but their numbers are often overwhelming, and bites can cause infection. A single rat can contaminate a whole Clan.
Twolegs - Tall, smooth-skinned creatures with some fur on their heads. Walk on two legs. Live in large, boxy nests with hard roofs and floors, often surrounded by tidy gardens and fences. Also known as Nofurs or Upwalkers. Twolegs ride around in monsters and seem to like dogs. They are to be avoided if possible, as they are capable of doing something unpredictable at any moment, such as tearing down a tree, starting a fire, or locking up a cat for no reason.
Source